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R. auriculatus (Gargoyle) and C. ciliatus (Crested) Gecko Caresheet
**R. chahoua (Mossy New Caledonian Gecko) and R. leachianus (New Caledonian Giant Gecko) care is similar with a few minor differences. Please refer to Google for care sheets on them. When I start offering those geckos, I will try to create a caresheet for this site.
Background/Introduction:
Gargoyle Geckos (R. auriculatus) and Crested Geckos (C. ciliatus) are endemic to New Caledonia, a chain of islands off the north eastern coast of Australia. Crested Geckos were thought to be extinct, until they were rediscovered in 1994. Gargoyle Geckos first became available in the 1980's but have only started gaining popularity recently. These geckos are semi-arboreal, spending most of their time in small trees and low shrubs. They will however, seek out hiding places near the ground to sleep during the day. They feed on insects, fruits, nectars and small vertebrates and in most cases can be kept fairly temperate. The ease of care, unusual appearance, and seemingly unlimited breeding potential, has contributed to their vast popularity. There is no doubt that these two species are indeed among the best pet lizards available today for all ages.
Their lifespan isn't well documented at this point, but many speculate that it is around 15-20 years with proper care. However, I actually have two gargoyles that were wild caught in 1997 and legally exported from New Calidonia to the US. They are both still breeding for me today after 21 years in captivity! I believe it is safe to update the life expectancy of gargoyles to 20-25 years, with proper care of course. Gargoyles grow to around 8-10" and generally weigh around 50-65 grams as adults (some can get up to 90+ grams, but that isn't as common). Cresteds grow to around 8" (with tail) and weigh around 35-50 grams (adult weights can also be heavier on occasion depending on lineage and diet) as adults.
Their lifespan isn't well documented at this point, but many speculate that it is around 15-20 years with proper care. However, I actually have two gargoyles that were wild caught in 1997 and legally exported from New Calidonia to the US. They are both still breeding for me today after 21 years in captivity! I believe it is safe to update the life expectancy of gargoyles to 20-25 years, with proper care of course. Gargoyles grow to around 8-10" and generally weigh around 50-65 grams as adults (some can get up to 90+ grams, but that isn't as common). Cresteds grow to around 8" (with tail) and weigh around 35-50 grams (adult weights can also be heavier on occasion depending on lineage and diet) as adults.
Housing:
There is a lot of opinion on enclosure sizing for these geckos which can be confusing. In many cases, young geckos housed in large cages will not eat well. Housing in stages is best as a gecko grows (I've listed my stage recommendations below for gargs and cresties). Keep in mind that regardless of what type of cage you use, that height is more desirable than length or width, especially with Cresteds. Gargoyles will do well in a longer enclosure as long as there is still good height (24x18x18" as an example). There are now many glass cages, screen cages and terrariums available on the market. Our favorites are front-opening glass cages (Zoo-Med or Exo-Terra); 12x12x18", 18x18x24", 24"x18x18", 18x18x36", etc. The full screen cages aren't recommended for these guys as the humidity retention is awful and it will be difficult to maintain and contain humidity. It is good to offer a lot of surfaces to climb upon. Gargoyles have smaller toe pads than Cresteds, and prefer to have plenty of rougher surfaces they can sit comfortably upon such as cork, textured vines, grapevine branches, etc. Although these geckos don't always drink from a water dish (they do drink water droplets from misting), still offer one to help retain humidity, and be sure to change it often. Some geckos will consistently drink directly from their dish especially if placed next to the food dish, but misting is still necessary. Coco fiber as a substrate works well, but keep in mind that young geckos may ingest some potentially causing impaction. Using paper towel as substrate allows you to monitor for defecation and is easy to change. I don't recommend using printed newspaper as it isn't very absorbent and has an oil based ink that could be harmful for your gecko. One of the wonderful things about these geckos is that because they are nocturnal, they do not require special UV lighting. Giving supplemental lighting is not necessary, but does not interfere with the geckos behavior when used appropriately so is a personal preference for the keeper.
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Gargoyle Gecko (min/max for weight category):
Hatchling to ~12+ grams: 6 quart to 20 quart ~12+ grams to ~30+ grams: 20 quart/5 gal to 10 gal ~30+ to adult (~50+ grams): 10 gal/12x12x18" to 20 gal Adult enclosure: 20 gal to 18x18x24" to 40 gal |
Crested Gecko (min/max size for weight category):
Hatchling to ~8+ grams: 6 quart to 20 quart ~8+ grams to ~20+ grams: 20 quart/5 gal to 10 gal ~20+ to adult (~40+ grams): 10 gal/12x12x18" to 20 gal Adult enclosure: 10 gal (alright, but small) to 18x18x24" to 40 gal |
Providing proper hides and cover is important when setting up your gecko's enclosure. I have quite a few examples of how I set my enclosures up here: GQR Gecko Room. It is a good idea to have a visual barrier on the back and part (or all) of the sides if your enclosure has lots of open space around it for a new gecko to feel more comfortable and less exposed. You can simply tape paper on the outside of the enclosure to provide this, or print/purchase a nice image that will make the enclosure look more natural (such as a forest/jungle background). You want your food to be easy access for a new gecko especially so make sure the food dish is easy to climb/walk to (without having to climb only glass and/or jump distances) and is near where the gecko seems to like to hang out. I like to put a vine, branch or cork up against my feeding ledges if using a magnetic feeder.
Young gargoyles are aggressive towards cage mates and will eat tails and toes. House gargoyles separate. As for cresteds, housing geckos together is possible as long as they are of similar size/weight/age and are FEMALE. Note that although your geckos may seem to get along, co-housing increases the chances of bites, tail taking and bullying from zero to likely. Be sure to monitor them for aggression. Watch for tail chewing, bite marks around the head and weight loss (more than 10% as weight naturally fluctuates a little). Also, if you suspect one of the geckos to be a male, separate immediately. Male geckos should NEVER be put together (with any New Caledonian Gecko species) as they will likely kill each other. NEVER put a female that is under 45 grams (gargoyle) or under 35 grams (crested) with a male as an absolute minimum size.
Humidity:
Humidity is very important for a healthy gecko, but you don't want your cage constantly wet. This will encourage bacteria, mold and possibly other issues to arise. To avoid this, simply mist your cage once or twice a day, but allow the entire cage to dry out between misting. Ambient humidity during the dry period should be around 40-60%, with short periods after misting between 80-100%. Another good idea is to provide a humid hide or lay box with moist coco-fiber and/or spangham moss. These hides will be used for shedding assistance, a hide and as a laybox for adult females.
Humidity is especially important in young geckos because they shed more often as they grow. Bad sheds or stuck skin can constrict tails and toes to the point of losing them. New Caldonian geckos will usually shed very quickly. It is uncommon to find shed skin as they eat it as they pull it off. I recommend using the deli cup your gecko came in as a humid hide if you have a baby/young juvenile. Cut a doorway large enough for your gecko to comfortably get in and out of near the top lip, fill the cup with moist moss, cap with lid, flip upside down (clear lid on bottom) and voila! Do be sure there are no sharp edges. You can use a fine grit sandpaper to smooth down any rough edges. I personally use various sizes of the inexpensive clear tupperware you can find at your local grocery. |
Temperature: Year round temperatures for New Caledonia
In most situations room temperature is adequate for Rhacodactylus geckos, as long as the temperature stays below 84 degrees (high) in the summer and above 65 (low) degrees Fahrenheit in the winter. My temps in the summer are usually 72/78 (low/high) and 65/72 (low/high) in the winter. Some provide their breeding gargoyles with a basking spot where direct surface temps can reach the high 80's/low 90's. If you choose to do so, the rest of the enclosure must have a temperature gradient to much cooler than that so the gecko can self regulate. My current set up doesn't easily allow me to provide this basking area so I don't have experience over 80 degrees with my animals.
Use a good digital thermometer with a temperature probe to monitor the environment, or a good quality temp gun. If the temps cannot be kept within this range, a low-wattage nocturnal red light can be suspended above the cage for 24 hour (or as needed) heat. This type of light also allows for nocturnal viewing. Rhacodactylus geckos are not disturbed by this wavelength of light so it will not interrupt their photo-period. If using a supplemental heat source, be sure your ambient temperature never exceeds 84 degrees, with optimum temperatures around 74-78 degrees F. Ambient temperatures above ~84 really starts to stress these geckos, especially the young ones. Stressed geckos tend to not eat well and their health can deteriorate quickly. Having your temperatures below ~70 slows down their systems. We cool our animals down in the winter to stimulate a natural seasonal temperature cycle. This also helps the females stop their breeding cycles so they can rest their bodies and put some weight back on for the next season. |
Feeding:
There are a number of different ways to feed, but these are the main two:
1. Meal Replacement Powder (MRP) Only:
The easiest and most convenient method of feeding New Caledonian Geckos is to use a diet that has been specialized specifically for these geckos. Pangea Fruit Mix Complete (PFMC) developed by Matt Parks is my geckos favorite by far, but they'll occasionally get Meal Replacement Powder (MRP, previously Crested Gecko Diet (CGD)) developed by Allen Repashy in an attempt to familiarize them with it. We currently use primarily the PFMC (all flavors). We also throw in the Repashy Grubs 'n Fruit into the rotation occasionally in an attempt to familiarize them to this for individuals already feeding Repashy to their current animals. These diets have been formulated to contain all of the essential fats, proteins, minerals, and vitamins that New Caledonian geckos need. These geckos can be maintained on this diet alone with no insects whatsoever. They are the staple of the diet we offer and the geckos love it! Geckos that feed on these diets without insect supplementation grow slower on average than the geckos who do eat both. They do grow to healthy adult weights, but it does tend to take a little longer for some individuals.
Mix the diet with 2 parts water to every one part dry diet. For locations with low ambient humidity, I recommend mixing it up with a little more water to extend the wet life. (NOTE: I've noticed that some diets require more water than others, such as Pangea's Banana/Apricot. Mix to a thin ketchup/melted milkshake consistency.) With one gecko, or just a few, it often is easier to mix the food and water directly into a dish (for larger numbers of geckos, it may be appropriate to mix in a squeeze bottle and store in the fridge for up to a week). Another option is to mix up a batch and freeze in an ice cube tray. Thaw out a cube to room temperature prior to feeding, but don't microwave. For a young gecko, you can use a 1/8th teaspoon and mix into a milk jug lid, bottle cap, or small souffle cup (1/2 oz size works best for single geckos) with 2/8 teaspoon of water (or more if needed). Feed your gecko every 2-3 days. Remove uneaten food after 36 hours and immediately if food begins to form mold (in my experience, Repashy tends to mold, Pangea does not). ** With the new Repashy diet revisions (V3.0), it seems that some geckos don't eat as much as they used to. If you find that your gecko eats less (or if you've only fed V3.0, but are concerned with their weight and/or lack of weight gain as they grow), try adding a drop or two of organic honey to sweeten the deal. Another additive you can have is the Pangea Fruit Mix (not the complete version), here or on pangeareptile.com. It is best to only include small amounts in the MRP on occasional feedings, as too much too often will spoil your gecko to the point of refusing regular MRP. Or switch over to the PFMC diet as my geckos seem to prefer it. |
2. Meal Replacement Powder and Insects:
New Caledonian geckos can be fed the formulated diets along with supplemental insects. The best insects to feed are feeder B. dubia roaches, crickets or both. I do not recommend feeding mealworms, they have been associated to increased instances of impaction. The insects that you offer your geckos should be no larger than the distance from the gecko’s nose to its eye. We feed our geckos dubia once a week to every other week and more often for the geckos that are a little more picky with their food. When feeding insects, it is extremely important to dust them with a calcium powder. Insects should also be gut loaded (fed a high quality diet) prior to being offered to your gecko. Remember, whatever is in the insect's digestive tract will end up in your gecko, so gut load your bugs well. We use Repashy products for our dubia colony; Bug Burger as the main diet, gutload with SuperLoad and dust with Calcium MedD. My dubias also feed on leftover gecko diet. Do not feed your geckos dried or dehydrated insects from a can. These geckos get most of their needed moisture from the food they eat. In my opinion, feeding dried diets can greatly dehydrate your animal and cause issues with the digestive process.
It is shown that geckos that are fed a mixed diet tend to have faster growth rates, not because of any lack of nutrients in MRP, but because they tend to eat more bugs as they taste yummy! Not to mention, hunting provides a great stimulus for the gecko. We much prefer dubia over crickets as they don't smell, don't make noise, don't climb, don't fly, don't jump, live much longer (2 years), are easier to digest, are more nutritious, are unable to breed without hotspots of 90-95F (can't infest a house if escaped), and readily breed producing a near-endless supply of feeders. It took a lot for me to get them, but they can't escape a good roach bin, and if accidentally flicked out of a feeding cup, it cannot infest a home and will likely die quickly without proper humidity. I don't like touching these, but I'm fine when using rubber kitchen gloves (ha). They are a little more pricey, but they've more than paid for themselves many times over with the money I've saved on not having to buy crickets bi-weekly (which starts to add up when you have over 10 geckos, let alone over 300). For feeding with insect supplementaion, continue to offer freshly mixed (or freshly thawed previously prepared) diet (Pangea preferred here) once every two to three days. You can add in 4-6 (at a time) appropriately sized crickets or dished dubia once a week or every other week. |
Although we personally do not provide this treat... They may also enjoy fresh fruit mixes, with fruits such as mashed banana (0.3:1), mango (0.91:1), apricot (0.74:1) and papaya (4.8:1) fed sparingly as treats ONLY. Check out calcium:phosphorus ratio charts to find fruits that can be mixed to make up a 2:1 Calcium:Phosphorus (phosphorus requires calcium to be absorbed, so not enough calcium causes it to be pulled from the bones). Never feed your gecko straight baby food... It does not have the nutrients your gecko needs and they can quickly become calcium deficient and develop metabolic bone disease (MBD) and also often has preservatives. The pre-made gecko diets have the correct balance, is economical and easy to use, so just use those! There are a few other commercial diets out there that work well including the Big Fat Gecko Smoothie mix, Clarks Gecko Diet, BPZ Color Bomb and Pangea Fruit Mix (not meant to be a full diet, but a treat and/or additive to the MRP, or supplemented with insects) along with a few homemade recipes (these are fairly new, and haven't been tested long-term). I personally would avoid those dried 'crested gecko' pellets at the petstore, gecko bites, and major brand name diets (ZooMed, etc). They're a waste in my opinion. The geckos do not like them.
Help! I just got my gecko but it is not eating!
This is normal, it may take a new gecko as long as two to four weeks to get into a usual feeding routine. Just continue to offer food and give it time. It is also a good idea to limit handling (only when necessary) to give them time to settle in and feel comfortable. Another thing to note is that small geckos have an extremely tiny stomach, so it may be hard to notice any missing food. Keep handling down to a minimum as your new pet settles into its new surroundings. As long as you can visually see signs of defecation, your gecko is eating. Though, a new and stressed gecko may also not defecate at normal intervals.
Handling Geckos as Pets:
Gargoyle geckos and Crested geckos are among the most handle-able of all lizards. They tolerate moderate to heavy handling even when they are relatively young, however you should not handle geckos that are less than two weeks old, or geckos that have recently been acquired, as it will take them some time to adjust to their new home. These guys do jump! It is more of a weak hop usually, but it is best to handle over a soft surface like a bed, or the carpet to avoid any chance of them jumping off a hand and hurting themselves from falling.
Unless necessary, you should not grab and restrain your gecko. They do have teeth and can bite if they feel threatened. If they are handled by a gentle hand with an open palm, they very rarely bite if ever. If a gecko is a little jumpy, try walking them from hand to hand to calm them down. A bite could draw some blood (very minimal), but is usually just a quick pinch... so don't be afraid!
ALWAYS supervise children when they are handling or touching a gecko and be sure to put away other animals that may be interested in a reptile snack! Use hand sanitizer or wash hands before and after handling to protect your gecko and those handling (mostly the gecko...). This is just a good practice in general to be in the habit of.
Unless necessary, you should not grab and restrain your gecko. They do have teeth and can bite if they feel threatened. If they are handled by a gentle hand with an open palm, they very rarely bite if ever. If a gecko is a little jumpy, try walking them from hand to hand to calm them down. A bite could draw some blood (very minimal), but is usually just a quick pinch... so don't be afraid!
ALWAYS supervise children when they are handling or touching a gecko and be sure to put away other animals that may be interested in a reptile snack! Use hand sanitizer or wash hands before and after handling to protect your gecko and those handling (mostly the gecko...). This is just a good practice in general to be in the habit of.
I'm going on vacation... Can I leave my gecko?
Well, it really depends on how long you will be gone. If it's just for a few days, then be sure to have a moist hide, feed and spray your gecko before you leave, and when you get home. Our geckos are fed every other night, but they can be fed on the third day if necessary. Any longer than that and you will need to find a suitable gecko sitter. Luckily, it's not difficult to care for them! Just remember, that without misting, they will likely become dehydrated which leads to all sorts of issues. Write up a list for your sitter: "Feed 'gecko' every other night (list recipe), lightly mist 'gecko' in the morning and at night, keep cage out of direct sunlight, holding 'gecko' is OK when the cat is put away", etc. Once you know that your gecko will be taken care of how you want, enjoy your vacation knowing that these guys are pretty hardy when those basic needs are met which are thankfully hard to mess up.
Gecko Color Changes
Each animal has the ability to change the intensity of the pigmentation in their scales. We refer to geckos as fired up when that pigment intensity is at its brightest, and fired down when it is at its lowest. Geckos fire up and fire down based on many factors; light availability, humidity and temperatures are the biggest players, but also mood, activity, mate availability, etc. I try to include multiple pictures on my available pages to give an idea of the ranges the gecko can achieve, although I often can't get the full range. See my page for examples on individual gecko color variations here.
Gecko color also changes as it grows from a hatchling to an adult. I notice that hatchling color is usually much duller prior to the three month old mark. After that, the color will start to change towards adult color. For gargoyles, foreground striping and blotching can spread outwards change from orange to red, red to orange, and they may develop background colors such as red and yellow. For examples, see my page on color progression here.
A gecko that is turning a light gray is going into a shed cycle. The skin will loosen and the gecko will start pulling it off and eating it. As long as your humidity levels are good, the gecko should have no problem getting it all off.
Gecko color also changes as it grows from a hatchling to an adult. I notice that hatchling color is usually much duller prior to the three month old mark. After that, the color will start to change towards adult color. For gargoyles, foreground striping and blotching can spread outwards change from orange to red, red to orange, and they may develop background colors such as red and yellow. For examples, see my page on color progression here.
A gecko that is turning a light gray is going into a shed cycle. The skin will loosen and the gecko will start pulling it off and eating it. As long as your humidity levels are good, the gecko should have no problem getting it all off.
Sex Determination
Determining the sex of Gargoyle and Crested geckos is easiest on geckos that are over 6 months old. Male geckos generally between 15-25 grams (approximately 8-14 months on average) will develop a very noticeable hemipenal bulge just below their vent. Sexing a juvenile gecko is considerably more difficult. Using a 60x or better jewelers loupe (we use a 60x with LED light) or magnifying glass, you can look for evidence of pore development in the region just anterior to the vent. Pore development is generally seen on males at 4-10+ grams but sometimes they aren't terribly defined and can be confusing. Female Gargoyle geckos may develop what's known as 'pseudo pores' that look similar to the male pores, but are usually much smaller and shallower than a male's and also the rows are usually more inconsistent.
A Disclaimer for those Interested in Breeding
Breeding geckos can be a very rewarding experience with lots of satisfaction. However, I do not recommend it without doing the proper amount of research, knowing that all animals need proper veterinary care, proper enclosures, food, etc. It can be very time consuming and produce more babies than you can sell/give away. Keep in mind that most pet stores are unable to purchase animals outside their predetermined and contracted source. You need to keep in mind that any animals you can't place you will need to house and care for. These geckos produce two eggs per clutch and an average of 6-8 (Crested), and 4-6 (Gargoyle) clutches per breeding season. It can get out of hand very quickly and small scale breeders do not make much money if any due to maintenance costs, vet bills, etc. Breeding can also be heartbreaking. When the rare fatal deformity hatches out, it's tough to make the call... But the animal has to be euthanize humanely. Although these geckos are hardy, it is not unusual to have a morbidity rate of 5% in the first two weeks of life.
An important factor in breeding is quality. As a breeder, I feel it is my responsibility to constantly improve the species. Good structure, solid bones/jaws, good size, good color and pattern. I do not breed pet quality animals or any animals with potential deformities/genetic issues. It is sometimes frustrating to see the new numbers of 'breeders' pop up that breed these animals because they're easy, and cheap (most often than not, these animals are "pet" quality). Don't get into breeding because of the potential to make money (it takes a lot of investment and time to start making anything back... but to make more than maintenance and investment is a whole different beast). Do it (breed) because you are genuinely interested in the species and care to be a fine example of a breeder.
There are plenty of resources out on the web about the details and intricacies of breeding that I will not go into here... So be sure to do your research and lots of it!
An important factor in breeding is quality. As a breeder, I feel it is my responsibility to constantly improve the species. Good structure, solid bones/jaws, good size, good color and pattern. I do not breed pet quality animals or any animals with potential deformities/genetic issues. It is sometimes frustrating to see the new numbers of 'breeders' pop up that breed these animals because they're easy, and cheap (most often than not, these animals are "pet" quality). Don't get into breeding because of the potential to make money (it takes a lot of investment and time to start making anything back... but to make more than maintenance and investment is a whole different beast). Do it (breed) because you are genuinely interested in the species and care to be a fine example of a breeder.
There are plenty of resources out on the web about the details and intricacies of breeding that I will not go into here... So be sure to do your research and lots of it!
Quarantine
Whenever introducing a new animal into your reptile collection, it is very important to quarantine in a room separate from your other animals for a minimum of 30 days (60 recommended). Keep everything simple (paper towel, hide, corkbark slab, plastic hanging plant, water dish, food dish), so you can access health, watch for mites, and monitor defecation. It may be good to get a fecal exam into your vet to check for internal parasites if you have any concerns. Weight monitoring is the best way to watch and access how an animal is doing. Get a good gram scale that can weigh to the tenth, weigh the gecko upon receipt, and weigh as needed (every 2 weeks, if no issues). Keep track of the weight, write it down! Be sure to keep your gecko hydrated. If after the quarantine period every thing passes, they may then be moved into their new home and introduced into your current collection.
Potential Health Issues/Problems
These guys are pretty resilient to issues health-wise as long as their needs are met. Online care sheets provide basic care information and recommendations, but if you do have concerns, you should contact your local exotic vet. Be sure to research your area for a good exotic vet as some may advertise themselves as 'exotic' but may not be too familiar with reptiles. I've heard some pretty crazy things from small animal vets who focus primarily on cats and dogs in regards to reptile health and medicine. For those located in Northern/Central Utah, we use Mountain West Veterinary Specialists in Layton UT, and recommend Dr. Boehler highly, who specializes in exotics: https://www.mtnwestvet.com/.
Dehydration can happen fairly quickly in the right conditions. Signs of dehydration are sunken eyes (although when a gecko is sleeping the eyes sink in a little as well), hip protrusion and skin that stays wrinkled up unnaturally are what you want to watch for. Feeding your gecko dried diets such as dry gecko pellets and dried insects is something I highly recommend against doing. These geckos naturally get most of their moisture from their food, so their food shouldn't be dry. Live insects and the manufactured diets should be offered. I always highly recommend Pangea Fruit Mix Complete (any flavor) as it is the favorite and is eaten the best.
Impaction occurs when the animal ingests too much substrate (the dirt of the enclosure) and it blocks up the digestive tract. If you feed insects, it may be best to house on paper towel especially for younger geckos. I feed my dubia roaches in dishes they can't climb out of so that they are easy to find and don't get mixed up in any substrate.
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) occurs when there is a lack of proper calcium intake, and can be reversed when caught early on. Watch for signs of tail waving (the tail bone itself actually curves in a tight s-shapes). Always be sure to dust your insects, and to not feed baby food to help prevent this. Hatchlings sometimes exhibit this, especially in those that were laid late-season when the mother's calcium reserves become most strained. Their tails straighten as they feed on MRP and dusted insects within a few months. If spotted in older animals or females that have recently laid eggs, give them a little extra calcium (Rescue Cal by Repashy, follow dosing instructions as overdosing is not good either, see my FAQ for dose calculation) for a couple weeks. Get in touch with your vet to get their recommendation, and if the issue does not revert by that time (the two weeks), be sure to get your gecko to your vet.
Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS) occurs when the gecko sleeps upside down on a vertical surface often enough that gravity starts to pull the tail over their back or to the side curving the tail bone at the base over time. This is generally pretty mild and minor, so if spotted, try giving your gecko more vertical branches and resting spots. In cases of extreme deformation, the hip bones can be impacted causing issues with lower function (laying eggs and possibly defecation). If you see it flop over their backs while at rest in this position, then you will want your vet's advice. They may want to pull the tail off to prevent this from progressing. For more information, here is a good resource: Floppy Tail Syndrome.
Stuck/ Retained Shed: When a gecko retains shed on their eyes, toes or tail, likely the humidity levels are not high enough. Give your gecko a lukewarm/room temperature sauna (in a small Tupperware with a moistened paper towel and very shallow water (just enough to cover toes) for about 10-15 minutes. The stuck shed should be soft enough to gently remove by hand. Up your humidity by misting an additional time or two each day (remember to be sure the enclosure dries out in between misting to prevent bacteria, mold and fungi from growing). Don't let stuck shed stick on, as if stuck shed is allowed to stay, the gecko will likely have issues with the tail tips and toes which may result in constriction and loss.
Crusty Mouth/Lip Curls: This isn't very well documented, but in my experience this is another issue resulting from lack of proper humidity. When spotted, I've noticed reversal when humidity is kept a little higher, and weekly lukewarm saunas are incorporated into the routine. Another cause I've noticed very rarely (only has occurred once in my personal experience), is that the crust lining (usually at the corners of the mouth) may become infected. If you see signs of infection (swelling, puffy, may bleed slightly when pressure is induced), be sure to schedule an exotic vet appointment. With treatment, lip curls/crusty mouths reverse their appearance after a few sheds. Lip curls are probably a gecko virus similar to a cold sore. There isn't really any information online about this, but this is the conclusion myself and a few others have come to in private discussions. It may be triggered by low humidity, so that's a good starting point in getting it healed up. I've noticed that it generally takes a couple of weeks to heal and shed off if treated early, and longer if the physical symptom is more severe. Your exotic vet may want to prescribe an antibiotic to help keep it from getting infected.
Parasites: Reptile Mites, an external parasite, is an issue that is difficult to eradicate. This is another reason why quarantine is extremely important. They are very small bugs that are white, until they feed upon reptile blood (when they become red in coloration). They are specific to reptiles, so no need to worry about yourself or the dog. The process of eradication is rather difficult and long, so I recommend looking it up online. All reptiles usually have some level of gastrointestinal parasites, and sometimes over time the load becomes more than your reptile can handle especially if stressed out. If you notice large weight drops (without the laying of eggs or recent enclosure changes), then it would be a good idea to get in a fecal sample into your vet to have checked out. We are looking into doing fecal exams on all of our geckos in the near future as an added service to be included in all purchases for our customers.
Dehydration can happen fairly quickly in the right conditions. Signs of dehydration are sunken eyes (although when a gecko is sleeping the eyes sink in a little as well), hip protrusion and skin that stays wrinkled up unnaturally are what you want to watch for. Feeding your gecko dried diets such as dry gecko pellets and dried insects is something I highly recommend against doing. These geckos naturally get most of their moisture from their food, so their food shouldn't be dry. Live insects and the manufactured diets should be offered. I always highly recommend Pangea Fruit Mix Complete (any flavor) as it is the favorite and is eaten the best.
Impaction occurs when the animal ingests too much substrate (the dirt of the enclosure) and it blocks up the digestive tract. If you feed insects, it may be best to house on paper towel especially for younger geckos. I feed my dubia roaches in dishes they can't climb out of so that they are easy to find and don't get mixed up in any substrate.
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) occurs when there is a lack of proper calcium intake, and can be reversed when caught early on. Watch for signs of tail waving (the tail bone itself actually curves in a tight s-shapes). Always be sure to dust your insects, and to not feed baby food to help prevent this. Hatchlings sometimes exhibit this, especially in those that were laid late-season when the mother's calcium reserves become most strained. Their tails straighten as they feed on MRP and dusted insects within a few months. If spotted in older animals or females that have recently laid eggs, give them a little extra calcium (Rescue Cal by Repashy, follow dosing instructions as overdosing is not good either, see my FAQ for dose calculation) for a couple weeks. Get in touch with your vet to get their recommendation, and if the issue does not revert by that time (the two weeks), be sure to get your gecko to your vet.
Floppy Tail Syndrome (FTS) occurs when the gecko sleeps upside down on a vertical surface often enough that gravity starts to pull the tail over their back or to the side curving the tail bone at the base over time. This is generally pretty mild and minor, so if spotted, try giving your gecko more vertical branches and resting spots. In cases of extreme deformation, the hip bones can be impacted causing issues with lower function (laying eggs and possibly defecation). If you see it flop over their backs while at rest in this position, then you will want your vet's advice. They may want to pull the tail off to prevent this from progressing. For more information, here is a good resource: Floppy Tail Syndrome.
Stuck/ Retained Shed: When a gecko retains shed on their eyes, toes or tail, likely the humidity levels are not high enough. Give your gecko a lukewarm/room temperature sauna (in a small Tupperware with a moistened paper towel and very shallow water (just enough to cover toes) for about 10-15 minutes. The stuck shed should be soft enough to gently remove by hand. Up your humidity by misting an additional time or two each day (remember to be sure the enclosure dries out in between misting to prevent bacteria, mold and fungi from growing). Don't let stuck shed stick on, as if stuck shed is allowed to stay, the gecko will likely have issues with the tail tips and toes which may result in constriction and loss.
Crusty Mouth/Lip Curls: This isn't very well documented, but in my experience this is another issue resulting from lack of proper humidity. When spotted, I've noticed reversal when humidity is kept a little higher, and weekly lukewarm saunas are incorporated into the routine. Another cause I've noticed very rarely (only has occurred once in my personal experience), is that the crust lining (usually at the corners of the mouth) may become infected. If you see signs of infection (swelling, puffy, may bleed slightly when pressure is induced), be sure to schedule an exotic vet appointment. With treatment, lip curls/crusty mouths reverse their appearance after a few sheds. Lip curls are probably a gecko virus similar to a cold sore. There isn't really any information online about this, but this is the conclusion myself and a few others have come to in private discussions. It may be triggered by low humidity, so that's a good starting point in getting it healed up. I've noticed that it generally takes a couple of weeks to heal and shed off if treated early, and longer if the physical symptom is more severe. Your exotic vet may want to prescribe an antibiotic to help keep it from getting infected.
Parasites: Reptile Mites, an external parasite, is an issue that is difficult to eradicate. This is another reason why quarantine is extremely important. They are very small bugs that are white, until they feed upon reptile blood (when they become red in coloration). They are specific to reptiles, so no need to worry about yourself or the dog. The process of eradication is rather difficult and long, so I recommend looking it up online. All reptiles usually have some level of gastrointestinal parasites, and sometimes over time the load becomes more than your reptile can handle especially if stressed out. If you notice large weight drops (without the laying of eggs or recent enclosure changes), then it would be a good idea to get in a fecal sample into your vet to have checked out. We are looking into doing fecal exams on all of our geckos in the near future as an added service to be included in all purchases for our customers.