Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Here is a list of questions that are frequently asked, or I interpret to being common questions that may be on a gecko owners mind. More questions will be added as they come up. These are not really in an order but I did try to group somewhat.
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What is the process for purchasing a gecko online from GQR?
Generally, communication is preferably initiated via email ([email protected]) or through the contact form. It is best if you express which gecko(s) you are interested in and with a zip code so I can grab you a shipping quote. I will also ask you to then fill out my purchase questionnaire, which is partially for me to verify that you are ready and also to grab all pertinent information I need for shipping. I may ask additional questions based on your questionnaire submission to clarify any potential issues. I want you to succeed in providing a thriving environment for your new gecko, and I'm sure you do as well. I will give you a final price shipped and payment can be sent or an invoice can be requested via PayPal. Once payment is received, the gecko's online status will be updated appropriately and we will confirm the delivery date. When shipping day comes, I will be in touch with tracking information and shipping confirmation early/late evening. Once the delivery has been made, please send me an email letting me know. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, etc during any of this process, don't hesitate to ask. I try my best to be accommodating, and will always be here for you long after your purchase.
What is included with my online purchase?
When buying a GQR gecko, you know that you are receiving a healthy animal backed by a guarantee. We keep extensive records and you know your animal's background information and lineage. You will receive paperwork for each gecko that includes weight record, lineage, hatch information and an exit examination You are also receiving a support line for your gecko. I don't care if you have a question a couple days after receipt, or a few years... Any questions that you may have at any point prior to and after your purchase, I am almost always available and happy to answer. I am usually able to respond to all emails within 24 hours, though some weekends may extend that.
What does the shipping cost include?
Shipping is rather expensive ($40-70+ depending on your location and box size/weight), but all live shipments have to be shipped FedEx Priority Overnight without exception. The number I quote is a rounded number. The cost includes the shipping box, styrofoam inserts or eps insulated container, heat/cold/phase pack (if needed), the shipping containment (deli cup/s), all the time to examine, prep and hydrate your gecko/s prior to shipping, paperwork and gas cost to the shipping hub. Adding all this up generally makes the total cost $10-15 ABOVE your quoted shipping cost, but I cover the excess difference as a courtesy.
Is shipping safe?
Yes, lots of live reptiles are shipped through the mail daily, well Mondays-Thursdays. It is important for the shipper (me) to verify safe shipping temperature ranges, and include proper heating and/or cooling elements to keep the internal temperature within acceptable safe temperature range for the species being shipped. Every gecko is offered water via dropper prior to packaging up to prevent dehydration during transit. Local temperatures along all major stopping points are checked prior to shipping so there are no surprises. Packing boxes have foam insulation to help regulate internal box temperature. I do my best to insure that the animal/s are packed to the best of my ability to ensure safe arrival. With that being said though, I don't want to imply that there is absolutely nothing that can go wrong. I have shipped over 1400 animals since 2011 and have had only 3 issues as a result of shipping to date even with ~5-10% of the time having a 24 hour delay. One package was a normal delivery, one a 24 hour delay, and one incredibly rare four day delay (5 days in transit). Sometimes things outside of our control happen; it's the nature of doing business with animals. The good thing though is that if you purchased shipping insurance (we cover half), you're covered for anything. I try to be upfront and our current shipping record is pretty good; 99.79+% live and healthy arrivals considering all delays experienced, which were outside our control Without those, we're technically 99.99+%.
Where are you located; can I come see your collection to pick an animal?
Gargoyle Queen Reptiles is located in Logan, UT. We operate out of our home, so have no physical store front and do not allow unknown individuals to view our private collection. We're not legally allowed to have customers visit, but there are also just privacy concerns as well. We are happy to schedule a meet-up within Davis or Cache Counties with a purchase to avoid shipping costs. In such situations, multiple animals may be brought to choose from if you are unable to pick online. A non-refundable deposit of 25% ($25 minimum) must be already made in order for us to do a meet-up with payment completed at the time of exchange (or already paid in full prior).
I bought a gecko at a show, why didn't I get any records?
Most of the geckos I bring to a show will not sell. I do not have the time to prepare all the paperwork for every gecko ahead of time so these geckos do not come with my exam, record and lineage page. If you purchase an animal from me at a show and would like to have weight and hatch records, feel free to email me afterwards (with label name and/or reference number) and I'll be happy to get you that information.
What goes into figuring the pricing on one gecko versus another?
This a question I get a ton from those who are unfamiliar with the market. A lot goes into my pricing. First, you get what you pay for. High quality animals will cost more than 'pet' quality. More reputable breeders with higher standards and ethics will cost a bit more for their quality vs a backyard breeder who doesn't really know better. Then you have genetics/lineage, color/pattern showing and potential, size/weight, age and sex all also playing a role into pricing structures. Base pricing is figured on the species and individual gecko for sale. I am a specialist breeder who focuses on high end New Caledonian Geckos, particularly Gargoyle Geckos. So most of my animals have more color and quality than your average gecko.... A lot more. Nice male (gargoyles) cost more than females, sometimes double (the hatch ratio for males is much lower than for females), but male cresteds are often less than females of similar color/quality. Unless absolutely exceptional. Next is lineage. A baby will cost more when from high color parents, generally. This adds to the potential for breeding purposes.
Why does pricing periodically jump?
Pricing does fluctuate, but generally, it increases. Especially for neonates. The youngest I will list a gecko is at ~6 weeks, dependent on the geckos weight and growth. Gargoyles tend to start coloring up significantly at 3 months and similarly, their pricing also goes up. Those with potential for background coloration generally won't develop that until they are 6+ months. Same goes for cresteds, 3 months with some traits starting to show around 6+ months. Although pictures may not have changed, the gecko has and the pricing reflects it. If pictures are a bit outdated, feel free to ask me for updated images. I generally add new ones every few months at the minimum, but it is hard to go through and do complete photo shoots for all my available animals, choose, watermark and post them more often than that. We're talking hundreds to thousands of pictures for each round. So ask for an updated image, and I'll take a couple of quick pics for you.
What do you (GQR) feed your geckos?
My geckos feed primarily on Pangea Fruit Mix Complete (PFMC). We alternate flavors (Watermelon/Mango, Banana/Apricot, Banana/Papaya) and feed every 2-3 days. We also rotate in Repashy Crested Gecko Diet/Meal Replacement Powder (CGD/MRP) and the Repashy Grubs 'n Fruit diet. (Side note: I have seen issues lately with geckos settling into new homes when being fed Repashy or ZooMed diets, canned insects, mealworms, etc. I really really REALLY recommend you buy PFMC, it's great stuff and my geckos love it. ) Appropriate sized dubia roaches and/or crickets dusted with calcium powder (with D3) are offered once a week for all geckos (usually 2-6 bugs depending on if the gecko eats them), except for chahoua (mossy geckos). Chahoua are usually heavier insect eaters and receive 3-6 appropriate dubia every feeding in addition to the mixed diets. I offer multiple diets so the geckos are familiar with them so that you (the purchaser) can feed what you probably already have if you already have geckos. If you don't already have a diet, then my recommendation is usually buying one of the PFMC flavors. My geckos seem to like the Banana/Papaya flavor the most, but it is a close three-way tie. Pangea (and most other gecko specific diets) contain the minerals and vitamins that are required. Adding in additional nutrients into this diet should be avoided. Over supplementation is a thing, and I avoid the associated issues by offering a shallow dish of calcium powder in all my breeding female enclosures so they can self supplement as needed.
Can I feed my gecko the diets (Pangea, etc) without mixing in water?
I hear this question on occasion and long story short, no, you cannot. These diets are concentrated dehydrated nutrient compositions that have instructions for a reason. Powdered gecko diets are hygroscopic in nature which means it attracts and absorbs any moisture around it. If fed dry, the food will suck the moisture it can from the gecko's gut linings. At minimum, this will lead to chronic dehydration which will eventually result in kidney failure. If you prepare gecko food with the recommended water amounts, but don't mix it well, hard clumps form which can cause issues as well. If the fed dry powdered food gets hydrated within the gecko's stomach (some claim having a water source for them to drink is sufficient), same basic thing happens; it will clump and has a decent chance of causing impaction of the gut. A very painful way to die if not treated right away. Just because there are some individuals out there who say they haven't had any issues... doesn't make it safe or right to do. It just makes you kind of dumb and your animal suffers. Sorry.
What kind of insects can I feed to my gecko?
Live insects are best. They should be lightly dusted with a calcium powder containing D3, but make sure the insect isn't much larger than the distance between the geckos eyes (maximum length of the head). Blaptica dubia roaches, banded crickets and occasional hornworms are what we feed here at GQR. Dubia have so many benefits that make them the best feeder insect for these guys. They can't climb slick surfaces (such as a sterilite tub), don't jump, fly, bite, make loud or obnoxious noises (they do scurry), have a higher meat to shell ratio, live longer, etc. Because these guys are masters at hiding, I offer all my geckos dubia in a small dish they can't climb out of. Live crickets move more than dubia, and don't need to be in a dish. Crickets can bite your gecko if they allow it, so it's best to not have a bunch in with them over days at a time, especially if the gecko can't easily escape them. Phoenix worms (Black Soldier Fly larvae) and calciworms are also acceptable. I don't recommend feeding mealworms consistently as they have more chitin that can lead to impaction if fed often. Don't feed canned or dried insects; these can contribute to dehydration. Waxworms can be fed on occasion as a treat; they have a high fat content and aren't really considered a 'healthy' insect.
Do I need to feed insects to my gecko?
No, the gecko diets are completely formulated to provide everything needed. However, if you feed supplemental insects, your gecko will grow faster. Some geckos refuse insects and do just fine (generally gargoyles), but some hold out for the insects (especially the chahoua). We feed all of our crested geckos (and gargoyle geckos who will take them) insects at least every two weeks (or more often, depending (chahoua twice a week)). It is also good sport and a instinctual stimulant for the gecko. Plus, it's fun and cute to watch them hunt. Keep in mind that crickets shouldn't be left in the enclosure overnight as uneaten crickets can actually bite your animal if they can't escape. Dubia roaches are masters of hiding, so we feed those in 2 oz plastic souffle cups, small glass dishes (such as tea light holders) or melamine condiment cups.
Help! My new gecko is not eating!
This is normal, it may take a new gecko as long as two weeks or more to get into a usual feeding routine. Just continue to offer food and give it time. It is also a good idea to limit handling to give them time to settle in and feel comfortable. Another thing to note is that small geckos have an extremely tiny stomach, so it may be hard to notice any missing food. Keep handling down to a minimum as your new pet settles into its new surroundings. As long as you can visually see signs of defecation, your gecko is eating. I often recommend giving a few (2-6) appropriately sized dubia roaches or crickets once a week to stimulate feeding responses.
My established gecko is losing weight/not eating?
There are a lot of reasons for a gecko to lose weight. If it is not egg related (females will generally lose ~4-10 grams after laying), then you may have an issue you need to watch. I highly suggest having a gram scale to monitor weight to catch unexplained weight loss early. Weight fluctuates naturally up to 15% depending on stomach content, feeding schedule, etc. Temperatures can play a huge factor. Lower temps (68-72) slow the metabolism, so they won't eat as much but they also generally don't loose weight there. Temps towards the warmer side (76-80) speed up the metabolism and activity so more food may need to be fed to maintain and/or grow (if applicable). If co-housed, there may be bulling and/or food guarding. Separate the animal(s) if that is the suspected issue. Parasite loads could also be the problem, so getting a fecal exam done by a vet is a good idea if an animals unexplainably losing weight. More possibilities include dehydration, or impaction which are also both quick progressing issues. If the gecko's weight drops 20% or more, get into a vet ASAP if you haven't already.
Can I feed my gecko dried powder vs mixing the diets with water?
I have heard of some breeders doing this and have been told by them that it is easier and doesn't cause any problems. This is bunk. These dry powdered diets are manufactured with a specific set of instructions and are composed of DEHYDRATED components. This means that the instructions should be followed to add in two parts water (or whatever it calls for) because if not then it would have a tendency to dehydrate your animal. It also could lead to impaction which is a blockage of the geckos gut and can lead to a very painful death if not treated by an exotic veterinarian. When the mixed diet feeds and hydrates your gecko at the same time, why would you want to take that element out and do the opposite (dehydrate)?
How often can I hold my gecko?
Upon receiving a new gecko, there is always an adjustment period of 2-4 weeks. It is best to limit your handling to only when necessary for that period to allow your new gecko to settle in. Once the gecko resumes a normal feeding/pooping regime, you know that you are able to move to the next step. Keep handling sessions short at first and as positive as possible. For geckos that are a little more difficult, ease into handling by limiting sessions and gradually increase time and frequency. Always be sure to keep handling experiences positive and gentle. When restraining a gecko, they are more likely to panic and/or bite. Handle with an open palm, and always close to a soft surface (to minimize drop distance) such as the carpet, blanket, bed, etc. New Caledonian geckos tolerate being handled much more than most other lizard species, but it still is a good idea to limit handling to 15 minute sessions for the geckos comfort and to avoid being lost track of (especially where kids are involved).
How should I handle/pickup my gecko?
It is best to place your hand underneath the front of the gecko and let the animal climb onto your hand. You can give a gentle tap to the rear of the gecko to encourage it to walk onto your hand. Lift the animal up and allow to walk from one hand to the next (called hand walking). Another method for a calmer/adjusted gecko is to gently scoop up under the front of the gecko but try to avoid a 'claw' hand picking up from behind or the middle/end of the gecko. It is best to not restrain your gecko forcibly as they can bite (although, it doesn't really hurt too much, it's more surprising). Having positive handling experiences will reinforce good behavior. Handle the gecko close to a soft surface such as the carpet, couch, bed, etc so that if the gecko leaps off your hand they have a soft landing.
My gecko just lost its tail, what should I do?
Losing a tail is a natural defense that geckos can utilize when they feel threatened, or get hurt. Due to constricting muscles at the base of the tail, there is very little to no blood loss. The free tail wriggles erratically for many minutes to try to distract a potential predator. Because of the quick constriction and little to no blood loss you don't really need to do much of anything. I recommend providing a clean environment (paper towel substrate) for a couple of weeks to keep the tail base clean as it heals. Crested Geckos will regrow a small tail stub, but the entire tail will not grow back. We call tailless crested geckos "frog-butts". Gargoyle Geckos will regrow their tails, but it takes some time (months) and does not look the same. A black stub will start to grow outwards, and new scales will grow from the base out. These scales are irregular and colored differently than the original and the gecko will not regain all of the original prehensile ability. Losing a tail does not reduce the value or quality of life for these animals in any way.
My geckos tail is wavy (the bone structure), what should I do?
For growing gargoyle geckos, it isn't uncommon for them to exhibit a minor tail wag just after hatch and/or during a growth spurt. But it could hint to two possible problems. Dehydration or calcium deficiency. It is not rare to see this with a new arrival and has been attributed to a combination of dehydration and stress. For dehydration, see questions below giving your gecko a bath (four posts down). When a gecko is calcium deficient, the gecko will first show signs in the tail. These guys need a 2:1 ratio of Calcium:Phosphorus (and D3) in their diet. Phosphorus needs calcium to be processed, so when not enough is present the phosphorus will pull calcium out of the bones. The process is a little more complicated, but I won't go into it here. If you do want to know more about this metabolic activity, here you go: Calcium and Phosphorus Metabolism. <- This is the metabolic activity in general, not specific to reptiles. The tail is usually the first sign, and in extreme cases if untreated, the calcium will be pulled from the spine and jaw causing MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease) which is a very serious issue. Google "Metabolic Bone Disease radiography reptile" for examples.
It is not uncommon for a young gecko (especially gargoyles) to display a minor tail wave as a result of the dam's calcium reserves being tested during the egg laying process. Generally these geckos tails will straighten out with a good diet without needing to supplement extra calcium. An occasional calcium boost will help speed up the process, but you don't want to overdose them either. We use Rescue Cal+ (Repashy) to give geckos a boost when needed. See the next question for dosing recommendations.
For breeding females (especially chahoua), they may have a calcium crash after laying. This is often a progressive crash becoming more difficult to handle as the season progresses and their calcium reserves are tested. I offer a shallow dish with a little bit of calcium powder (Repashy medD) year round for my breeding geckos to self medicate as needed. I've noticed significant improvement in calcification of eggs and reduction of post-lay calcium crashes since offering this.
It is not uncommon for a young gecko (especially gargoyles) to display a minor tail wave as a result of the dam's calcium reserves being tested during the egg laying process. Generally these geckos tails will straighten out with a good diet without needing to supplement extra calcium. An occasional calcium boost will help speed up the process, but you don't want to overdose them either. We use Rescue Cal+ (Repashy) to give geckos a boost when needed. See the next question for dosing recommendations.
For breeding females (especially chahoua), they may have a calcium crash after laying. This is often a progressive crash becoming more difficult to handle as the season progresses and their calcium reserves are tested. I offer a shallow dish with a little bit of calcium powder (Repashy medD) year round for my breeding geckos to self medicate as needed. I've noticed significant improvement in calcification of eggs and reduction of post-lay calcium crashes since offering this.
What are the Rescue Cal + (Repashy) dosing instructions?
This product gives instructions on how to make up the solution, but not to actually dose your animal. This is a bit more complicated for the average person, so the instructions say to use as prescribed by your veterinarian. If there is something extreme wrong with your animals bone structure, then yes... GO to your vet and have them diagnose and prescribe a treatment. If you are simply giving an extra calcium boost to geckos who are displaying MINOR tail wave, or breeding females who need a boost after laying (especially chahoua), then here is my educated recommendation (as a vet tech).
I mix 1.5 grams of Rescue Cal (yes, you need to weigh this and it needs to be pretty accurate) into approximately 2.5-3 ml water. Then the volume is made up to 5 ml with water. If you throw in 1.5 grams of powder into 5 ml water, then your final solution won't be exactly 30%, it'll be more like 25-27%... Hence a contribution to being more complicated for the average non-medical/scientist person. According to Repashy, this 30% solution contains 25mg/ml calcium. I dose 100mg/kg for regular situations and up to 250mg/kg in more extreme cases (such as a bad chahoua calcium crash). The average person should probably shoot for 100mg/kg.
The calculation: animal weight (kg) x dosage (mg/kg) / concentration of drug (mg/ml) = volume needed in ml or cc
For dosing a 50 gram gecko:
0.05kg x 100mg/kg / 25mg/ml = 0.2 ml or cc
0.05kg x 250mg/kg / 25mg/ml = 0.5 ml or cc
For a small gecko, unless you have a very accurate pipette or syringe that can go to the hundreth... You'll have to estimate the dose by drop. One (1) full drop is approximately 0.065 ml. A 5 gram gecko would need 0.02 ml (100mg/kg dose) or approximately 1/3 of a drop. The 250 mg/kg dose would be 0.05 ml so a 1/2-3/4 of a drop is within range, but shoot for less than that.
I mix 1.5 grams of Rescue Cal (yes, you need to weigh this and it needs to be pretty accurate) into approximately 2.5-3 ml water. Then the volume is made up to 5 ml with water. If you throw in 1.5 grams of powder into 5 ml water, then your final solution won't be exactly 30%, it'll be more like 25-27%... Hence a contribution to being more complicated for the average non-medical/scientist person. According to Repashy, this 30% solution contains 25mg/ml calcium. I dose 100mg/kg for regular situations and up to 250mg/kg in more extreme cases (such as a bad chahoua calcium crash). The average person should probably shoot for 100mg/kg.
The calculation: animal weight (kg) x dosage (mg/kg) / concentration of drug (mg/ml) = volume needed in ml or cc
For dosing a 50 gram gecko:
0.05kg x 100mg/kg / 25mg/ml = 0.2 ml or cc
0.05kg x 250mg/kg / 25mg/ml = 0.5 ml or cc
For a small gecko, unless you have a very accurate pipette or syringe that can go to the hundreth... You'll have to estimate the dose by drop. One (1) full drop is approximately 0.065 ml. A 5 gram gecko would need 0.02 ml (100mg/kg dose) or approximately 1/3 of a drop. The 250 mg/kg dose would be 0.05 ml so a 1/2-3/4 of a drop is within range, but shoot for less than that.
Checking calcium sac reserves
Although not necessary to do, but generally I do this when a female lays eggs with improper calcification. You can gently try to insert a credit card, but some geckos will gape upon restraint. The images below are examples of this, where I was able to take a quick image of calcium sacs. Male gargoyles do not have obvious calcium reserves, but females do (understandably, since they need larger reserves for egg production). The calcium sacs can be clearly seen on the female (right) at the back of the palate. (Note: the female pictured was a sub-adult here, so calcium reserves aren't as defined as a breeding adult's should be.)
My gecko is having a hard time getting shed off, what should I do?
Retained shed is often a sign of dehydration. Removing the shed by hand can be a very stressful experience for your gecko and may do more harm than good. Give your geckos enclosure extra misting and be sure to make note of where the retained shed is. If it is all over the body (even for a couple days) it is best to let it be undisturbed by handling and bump the humidity. If there is retained shed on limbs or toes, then a drop of mineral oil and a bath will assist with the removal. When shed is retained on a limb/toe it can cut off circulation over time (a few sheds) and the ischaemia (ie lack of blood/oxygen) tolerance threshold will be passed. The limb/toe will shrivel, die and fall off. If you have retained shed around the eye, do NOT apply mineral oil. Give a bath, and use a Q-tip moistened with water to try to gently work off the shed. Read the next FAQ for a bath how-to.
How do I give my gecko a bath? And why not a sauna?
A gecko may need a bath for multiple reasons. If the gecko is having shedding issues or are dirty are the most common ones. Some geckos are rather messy with their food and a bath is necessary to clean them off or the crusted/hard food may interfere with shedding. Get a small tupperware container that can fit your gecko without being too large. Line it with a few papertowels encompassing the bottom and the sides. Crumple up a papertowel and line it up around the edges of the container. Pour in ~1-2mm of room temperature water, just enough to cover the geckos toes. Do not use hot water or even warm water as it will scald your cold-blooded animal. Room temperature to barely warm to the touch (like a baby's bottle, but cooler). Saunas are usually hot and steamy... that's why the distinction. Place the gecko in the container and close the lid (be careful to not pinch toes or tail). Watch your gecko for 10-15 minutes, do not let your eyes leave or get distracted. You can have small punch holes in your container if you're overly paranoid of forgetting the time, but it does let humidity out. After an appropriate soak time has passed, remove your gecko and gently work the shed (or mess) off with a q-tip, your fingers and even tweezers if you are steady of hand (be careful to not pinch the gecko).
Dehydration, signs to watch for and what to do.
Dehydration can onset rather quickly if the proper environmental conditions aren't correct. First signs usually are sunken in eyes (though this also can happen when the gecko is 'asleep' due to a relaxation of the muscles that provide regulated eye pressure when awake), protruding hip bones (but not usually ribs unless really dehydrated) and a slightly wavy tail. If a gecko is suspected of being slightly dehydrated, increase misting/humidity and give some water by dropper. It is a good idea to have FLAVORLESS Pedialyte on hand to use in such a case. For more extreme cases (all symptoms present, and gecko has lost 10+ grams), then your exotic veterinarian should be visited ASAP to get a fluid injection. If an immediate appointment cannot be made, then fluids should be given immediately by hand. I use an electrolyte powder mixed into bottled water (approximately 1:2 parts), and give this by dropper. Because the gecko is dehydrated, you don't want to give any food. Their sticky mouths and saliva may cause the food to stay in their mouth and throat so just give fluids.
I recently had an experience where a gecko was unknowingly missing for likely a week and the 40 gram sub adult gargoyle male had dropped approximately 15 grams (yikes!). He was very lethargic, felt 'light' and stiff, had all the signs and didn't look too good. I gave him approximately 1 cc of the electrolyte/water mixture immediately and placed him in a small paper towel lined cage with a corkbark hide, plastic plant and water. You don't want to give too much, think about what their stomach can handle in a sitting. Give too much and they may start trying to vomit it back up by tossing their heads violently. About an hour later, I gave him another 1 cc of the mixture and let him be. He responded similarly, slowly lapping up the fluid without much strength while not being able to cling to my hand. Another couple of hours later I found him perched on the water bowl and by this time he had already gained approximately 6 grams back! He was more responsive and had more strength - he could hold onto me now. I mixed up some food (PFMC W/M) with electrolyte powder and water to a very thin consistency (not even milk thick) and gave him what he would lick. I repeated this process throughout the day checking in on him every few hours. By the end of the day, he was back up to 35 grams and was much more feisty. Today, this gecko is back to his normal weight and growing again.
This experience shouldn't be used in place of veterinary suggestions, but I do hope it can help in an emergency.
I recently had an experience where a gecko was unknowingly missing for likely a week and the 40 gram sub adult gargoyle male had dropped approximately 15 grams (yikes!). He was very lethargic, felt 'light' and stiff, had all the signs and didn't look too good. I gave him approximately 1 cc of the electrolyte/water mixture immediately and placed him in a small paper towel lined cage with a corkbark hide, plastic plant and water. You don't want to give too much, think about what their stomach can handle in a sitting. Give too much and they may start trying to vomit it back up by tossing their heads violently. About an hour later, I gave him another 1 cc of the mixture and let him be. He responded similarly, slowly lapping up the fluid without much strength while not being able to cling to my hand. Another couple of hours later I found him perched on the water bowl and by this time he had already gained approximately 6 grams back! He was more responsive and had more strength - he could hold onto me now. I mixed up some food (PFMC W/M) with electrolyte powder and water to a very thin consistency (not even milk thick) and gave him what he would lick. I repeated this process throughout the day checking in on him every few hours. By the end of the day, he was back up to 35 grams and was much more feisty. Today, this gecko is back to his normal weight and growing again.
This experience shouldn't be used in place of veterinary suggestions, but I do hope it can help in an emergency.
Can I house geckos together?
Yes and no. Males cannot be housed together under any circumstance. Females must be of a similar size/weight to be housed together and for a male/female combo the female/s must be of proper breeding size (min 35 grams for crested, 45 grams for gargoyle). Geckos housed together may eat tails and toes of their cage mates. I do NOT recommend housing non-adult gargoyle geckos together at all (if you must, similar sized females only). It is very costly (metabolically) for a gargoyle to regrow their tail and as a growing gargoyle all that energy should be going towards normal growth, not tail regrowth. All my animals are housed individually with the exception being breeding animals.
Can I house different species together?
NO! It is extremely stressful and dangerous. There will likely be fighting, wounds, and even death. I've actually had questions of whether or not a crested/gargoyle gecko can be housed with a dart frog or a bearded dragon. Not only no, but NO! The requirements are way different. Even if the animals have the exact same enclosure requirements, it is just not a good idea. Housing cresteds and gargoyles together is dangerous (I don't care how large your enclosure is). Even if you've never seen them fight, or show interest, even for a minute to clean or whatever you think justifies it. It will result in injuries and/or death. It is careless and irresponsible.
I want to give my gecko more space than you suggest, why is that not recommended?
These guys actually do better in limited spaces and tend to stress out if given too much which can stress them out to the point of not eating. I generally recommend no more than a 12x12x18" (approximately 10 gallons) for a gecko smaller than 20-25 grams and an enclosure no bigger than a 18x18x24" (approximately 33 gallons) for an adult. For a young gecko around 5 grams to around 15 grams, 5 gallons is generally my recommendation. If you give them too much space you may find that the gecko will retreat to an area and stay with limited wanderings. If food is not nearby the hiding and stressed gecko they may not wander out to eat.
I am going on a trip, how long can I leave my gecko?
Well, it really depends on how long you will be gone. If it's just for a few days, then be sure to have a moist hide, feed and spray your gecko before you leave, and when you get home. Our geckos are fed every two to three days, which allows a little flexibility with leaving for a weekend. Any longer than that and you will need to find a suitable gecko sitter. Luckily, it's not difficult to care for them! Just remember, that without misting, they will likely become dehydrated which leads to all sorts of issues. Write up a list for your sitter: "Feed 'gecko' every other night (list recipe), lightly mist 'gecko' in the morning and at night, keep cage out of direct sunlight, holding 'gecko' is OK when the cat is put away", etc. Once you know that your gecko will be taken care of how you want, enjoy your vacation knowing that these guys are pretty hardy when those basic needs are met which are thankfully hard to mess up.
Weight Gain: How fast should my gecko gain weight?
This is a somewhat difficult question as it varies for each gecko. Weight gain/growth depends on many factors including parentage, temperature, diet, feeding frequency, cage size, etc, etc, etc. I have found that generally speaking Crested Geckos and Gargoyle Geckos reach a healthy adult weight/size in the 2-3 year range. Males may become sexually mature in 1 year, but are usually not fully grown. It isn't really abnormal for a gecko to reach adult size at one year to one and a half years of age if kept in the optimal temperature range, fed PFMC and given insects as additional supplement once or twice a week. We have lower temperatures in the winter, resulting in slower growth rates then. Optimum conditions for fastest growth is temperatures I have noticed between 74-76 degrees F (I haven't personally gone warmer minus occasional and temporary heat spikes), feeding CGD every two days and insects once a week or more. Try to keep cage changes (not cleaning, but furnishing orientation) to a minimum as it seems to affect their feeding/growth as they re-adjust.
I've attached a couple gargoyle gecko growth charts to compare a fast grower (left) and a slow grower (right). These geckos are listed under my collections page as GQR breeders if you're interested in seeing the exact geckos mentioned.
I've attached a couple gargoyle gecko growth charts to compare a fast grower (left) and a slow grower (right). These geckos are listed under my collections page as GQR breeders if you're interested in seeing the exact geckos mentioned.
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Should I purchase a scale to weigh my gecko/s?
Monitoring the weight of an animal using a gram scale that can measure to the tenth (0.1) of a gram is a very useful tool in assessing the health of the animal over a period of time. All of my animals are weighed approximately monthly. Keep in mind that weighing the day after a big feeding, the weight may be slightly elevated due to the recent food intake. I call this a "full weight". Similarly, weighing just before feeding is called an "empty weight". Weighing your animal daily or even weekly can be overkill and a bit stressful for you. The weights don't usually do much in that time period other than fluctuate that 5-10% depending on the coordination of your feeding schedule and how much your gecko eats. Weighing every 2-4 weeks gives you a better growth assessment in general. Record your weights on a sheet or online so you can keep track of the progress. If you suspect an issue such as not eating, weight drop, dehydration, etc... Weigh and compare with previous weights to see if there is a significant drop (10+% weight drop indicates there is an issue (20% or more and the animal could be severely dehydrated and needs immediate medical attention... Though, the visible signs should alert you to this before the weight).
Can I get a weight record for my gecko?
I keep extensive records on every gecko that I keep and have ever produced. If you would like to have a record of the weigh ins for your gecko, please feel free to contact me and I would be happy to provide this information. If you purchased your gecko online, then you will receive a copy of the comprehensive record for each animal you purchase. If you ever lose this information, I can easily make you another copy and mail it off. Just let me know.
How long will my gecko live?
Cresteds and Gargoyles that are well started as hatchlings and with optimal care can live 15-20 years. Although, arguably they can live longer as it isn't yet documented well because they are still relatively new to the pet industry. Chewies can live more around 25 years, leachies 30 years.
How often should I clean my gecko's enclosure?
For our non-breeding geckos on paper towels, we change that (the paper towel) out weekly or biweekly as needed with a 10% chlorhexidine wipe down. All furnishings (plants, vines, dish holders, etc) are soaked in a cleaning solution (my preference is 1/2 oz to 1 oz Roccal-D Plus per gallon of water, soaked ~10 minutes and thoroughly rinsed... Though a 10% Bleach solution is cheaper, and alright as long as there is no remaining bleach residue) 3-4 times a year. Glass enclosures are chemically cleaned in a similar fashion, and glass is cleaned with a glass scraper followed by a 10% chlorhexidine wipe.
How often should I mist?
Generally, at least once a day (usually at night). Misting in the morning and at night is preferred as long as the enclosure can dry out in between to prevent mold and bacterial growth. For those with drier climates (or in the cold winters with the furnace on), misting may be needed more frequently. The dry-out-in-between phase is still important though, so be conscious of that.
Can I feed fruit varieties of baby food?
NO! They do not have correct Calcium:Phosphorus ratios. Phosphorus requires calcium to be absorbed, so not enough calcium causes it to be pulled from the bones. Never feed your gecko straight baby food... It does not have the nutrients your gecko needs and they can quickly become calcium deficient and develop metabolic bone disease (MBD) and also often has preservatives. The pre-made gecko diets have the correct balance, is economical and easy to use, so just use those!
Can I give my gecko treats?
Sure, the occasional treat is OK. But don't go overboard and try to spoil your gecko. They enjoy fruit mixes, with fruits such as mashed banana (0.3:1), mango (0.91:1), apricot (0.74:1) and papaya (4.8:1) fed sparingly as treats. Check out calcium:phosphorus ratio charts to find gecko friendly fruits that can be mixed to make up a 2:1 Calcium:Phosphorus (phosphorus requires calcium to be absorbed, so not enough calcium causes it to be pulled from the bones). Never feed your gecko straight baby food... It does not have the nutrients your gecko needs and they can quickly become calcium deficient and develop metabolic bone disease (MBD) and also often has preservatives.
Is regular tap water OK to use?
Yes, however it is better to use Reverse Osmosis (RO) water. This is water that is passed over a semi-permeable membrane to filter out unwanted chlorine, chloramines, phosphates, silicate, copper, nitrates, etc that may be present in ordinary tap water. If you don't have your own in-home RO system, purified water can be purchased cheaply at the grocery. You should not use distilled water, which would pull essential elements from the body via osmosis to balance out the concentration.
Do I have to have a male with my female to prevent egg binding?
No. In some species, infertile eggs can be more 'sticky' and as a result are harder to pass causing the animal to become egg bound. In New Caledonian geckos, this is not the case. Infertile eggs are usually just as calcified as fertile ones but are generally a little squishy. You do not need to purchase a male gecko to put with your female. In fact, it's best to not house your female with a male as this increases stress from breeding/attempts and could cause her physical damage. Potential babies are another responsibility you will need to do research on to be prepared for.
My gecko is lonely, do I need to get him/her a companion?
NO! These geckos are not naturally social creatures. They do not seek companionship and prefer to be alone. Housing with other geckos is stressful and may result in tail drops and missing (eaten) toes, especially in younger geckos. If you must house two or more together, do NOT house males together, the geckos must be of the same species and they must be of similar size/weight. Extended answer to come!
My gecko laid eggs, what should I do?
If your gecko is not housed with a male, then the eggs are infertile (very rare instances, an egg can be parthenogenic). The egg/s can be disposed of. If you want to incubate anyways, or have a male as well, then the egg/s can be kept at room temperature (70-76 degrees F) on moist vermiculite, hatchrite, Superhatch, HatchNow, etc. Incubation time depends on species and temperature... But generally around 70-90 days for Cresteds and 80-100 days for Gargoyles. I recommend giving your female some extra calcium after laying to boost her supply back up. Either mix a little extra into her food a couple of times, give a couple small doses of RescueCal, or dust your insects a little more heavily the next time. I have found that several of my females will self regulate when they have a shallow dish in the enclosure with some calcium powder.
Can I take my gecko outside and to public places?
Sure, as long as the temperatures are within safe ranges, you're keeping a good eye on your animal and respecting others. It's best to just not... But if you have to, be smart about it. Don't take your gecko to a restaurant. Extended handling periods may stress your gecko out, and that stress accelerates when there are extra stimuli such as movement, noise/sounds, bright lights, people, etc.